My View on the Rise and Fall of Supreme: A Streetwear Enthusiast’s Journey Through Hype and Reality
- William Borch
- Jan 18, 2024
- 6 min read
As a fairly dedicated ‘follower’ of Supreme since the early 2010s, my journey with the brand, one of passion, excitement, and oftentimes disappointment, from its peak hype to the current day, mirrors not just the brand's evolution but also my own growth as a consumer and enthusiast.
A brand that once symbolized exclusivity and cultural prestige slowly transformed into something quite different. This is a story that may have been told before, but one I wanted to write about with my own personal lens and explore the factors that led to the rise and subsequent decline of Supreme's “hype”.
I was, most certainly, a true Supreme enthusiast, almost embarrassingly so, quite frankly. A White kid from the UK with very little connection to what Supreme represented in terms of counter-culture and a symbol of underground defiance, decked out daily in that famous red and simple “Futura Heavy Oblique” logotype. I wasn’t quite that meme of those four kids in synchronised Supreme USA Box Logo Hoodies with ultraboosts on, but some of my friends probably thought that that version of reality was the cousin of what I was living.
I was so known for it, in fact, that whenever people saw the word “Supreme”, in any context of life, they would think of me. I remember once a friend of mine once saw a Pizza shop in Boston (the City I attended College in from 2013 - 2018) named “Supreme Pizza”, and simply took at picture of it, posted it to his Snapchat story, and wrote “@ will borch”... I thought it was funny at the time, perhaps less so as I reflect on it now…
The Cultural Revolution of Supreme
Let’s set the scene a little bit; in the early 2010s, Supreme was not just a brand; it was a cult. Rooted in Manhattan's skate culture of the 90s, it represented rebellion and non-conformity. As someone who admired the brand from around 2012 onwards, learning about it through Tyler, The Creator, Supreme was more than apparel – it was a statement.
Each season, new Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer collections brought new excitement. It was like when your favourite sports team announces their schedule for the upcoming season. I remember scrolling through lookbooks and previews, diligently noting pieces I knew were nearly impossible to get. This exclusivity was Supreme's hallmark, creating a frenzied community eagerly awaiting each drop.
The excitement and anticipation were amplified by the rapid growth of the internet and the advent of personal devices during the early years of the last decade. The heightened connectivity we experienced, coupled with the burgeoning influence of social media platforms and community-driven internet functions like Reddit, created a perfect storm. Supreme's rise coincided with these technological advances, allowing the brand to cultivate an even more fervent online community.
The internet provided a space for Supreme enthusiasts to connect, share information, and fuel the hype around each release. It wasn't just about buying clothing; it was about being part of a growing global conversation, a digital community where each drop was dissected, celebrated, and sometimes critiqued. Supreme rode the wave of this new digital era and elevated its brand from a well-known skate brand with ties into Hip Hop and other segments of Pop Culture to an international icon of streetwear culture.
Although a morbid comparison rooted in an entirely different, and more important, conversation - this really is what it felt like at the time:
My First "Cop" – A Moment of Triumph
This sounds like I’m writing about something FAR more dramatic and impactful than the first time I bought something from a store on their website, but the truth is, at the time, it felt MONUMENTAL. In 2015, the concept of going to the Supreme store in Soho in Manhattan didn’t really compute or feel like a viable option. There was always a line, everything was always sold out, and going to the physical store didn’t feel like a worthwhile endeavor.
With that, one of my most vivid Supreme memories dates back to the very first time I successfully 'copped' from their website. Let me bring you back to August, 2015, Supreme F/W ‘15 Week One. I was staying with my then-girlfriend at her parent's house in New Jersey (like maybe an hour+ from the physical retail store in Soho to cement the point I made above).
It doesn’t quite feel like it was yesterday, because it was nearly 10 years ago, but clearly, it was impactful because I still remember so many details about it. The preparation was meticulous – listing desired items, setting up a Chrome auto-checkout extension, and adding a cheap accessory to our cart to be able to quickly refresh it during the drop. The moment we received the checkout confirmation email was, in retrospect, hilariously exhilarating. Back then, securing anything from Supreme felt like a triumph against all odds.
Peak Hype and Inevitable Decline
I would estimate that around 2018, Supreme's hype arguably peaked. As I alluded to at the beginning of this, I recall the days when acquiring a box logo hoodie was a total fantasy – they were reselling for no less than $1,000 at a minimum, many for much, much more. Fast forward to December 2023, and I was able to pick up my fourth box logo hoodie for retail in this latest F/W ‘23 drop. I feel like that quick anecdote alone encapsulates Supreme's shift from a scarcity-driven obsession to a more accessible brand.
Why has this happened? Well, there are a lot of reasons as to why this shift manifested itself, and it’s important to note that it happened over a long period of time and that things may easily shift again soon.
Over-Commercialization and Decay of Authenticity: Supreme's journey from a skate shop to a global fashion phenomenon was marked by collaborations with high-profile artists and brands. This expansion, while initially fueling its fame, eventually led to criticisms of commercialization and a departure from its roots.
Corporate Takeovers and Cultural Shifts: The acquisition by VF Corporation in 2020 raised concerns among fans about Supreme's independence. This corporate shift symbolized the challenge of balancing market success with maintaining the fabric of what made the brand so popular.
Oversaturation and Accessibility: The brand's strategy of limited releases and exclusivity started to wane. More products were released, and many became easily available, diluting the once-coveted “exclusivity” of Supreme.
Impact of Reselling Culture: The surge in reselling Supreme items for higher prices also impacted its exclusivity and dramatically changed the face of who was wearing Supreme. I think that, ultimately, this detracted from the authentic appeal of owning Supreme items, as purchases were increasingly driven by profit motives.
Lack of Innovation: Over the years, many have argued that Supreme relied too heavily on its iconic box logo, with few new designs or concepts. This is not something that bothered me because I think there are a lot of things that one could point to to suggest Supreme was trying different things. That said, some may counter-argue my point and suggest that trying too hard to do weird and different things can come across as corny. cough cough...The Supreme Brick. This lack of innovation contributed to a stagnant image and declining consumer interest.
Increased Competition: The influx of new streetwear brands offering innovative designs challenged Supreme's dominance. Consumers now have a wider array of choices, with brands such as Corteiz (CRTZ RTW), Kith, Aimé Leon Dore, Palace, Stussy’s revitalization, Off-White, Bape, Noah NYC, Fear of God, Stone Island, and many others all contributing to a shift in preferences away from Supreme.
Global Expansion and Loss of Niche Appeal: Supreme's expansion into international markets, while initially boosting its profile, ultimately contributed to losing its niche, subcultural appeal.
Evolving Consumer Preferences: As fashion trends evolve, so do consumer preferences. The shift in what younger generations seek in streetwear has impacted Supreme's relevance.
Reflecting on the Journey
The Supreme journey, for me, has been about more than just clothes; it has been about trying to identify with a part of a culture and belonging to a community. The early days were marked by a sense of achievement in acquiring something so elusive.
Supreme's story is also a reflection of the cyclical nature of fashion and trends. What started as a small skate shop grew into a global phenomenon, influencing fashion and shaping streetwear culture. However, there have been challenges to staying relevant and authentic in a constantly shifting marketplace.
As I wrote this and downloaded a somewhat extensive thought process, I came to the conclusion that Supreme will always be special to me as someone who so enjoys being a part of streetwear culture. It kind of taught me a lot. The journey has taught me about being passionate about something, the pursuit of exclusivity, some economics and what comes with the reselling world, and the inevitable evolution of brands in the dynamic world of fashion.
Conclusion
The rise and fall of Supreme's hype is a tale of cultural shifts, market dynamics, and evolving consumer preferences. It serves as a reminder of the delicate balance between maintaining authenticity and commercial success. For me, and many others, Supreme was, and is, more than just a fashion brand – Supreme defined era of 2010s culture.
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